Photo Credit (Pixabay)
At the age of fifty, Adrian Clark—a self-proclaimed hoarder of clothing—knew it was time to ditch the camouflage pants and Converse. He gives men his advice on how to dress well for their age.
I can say with confidence that 2017 was a difficult year for me personally. Two enormous occurrences that would alter the course of my life forever served as its bookends. After living in London for over 30 years, I relocated to the coast of Kent in December in search of a more fulfilling and tranquil life, and in January I turned 50 (for those who have not yet reached that half-century milestone, let me clarify one thing: age is not simply a number). So, at first appearance, one might say that the two are inextricably connected. I understand. All of us, as we age, long for the days when life moves at a more leisurely pace, don’t we? I agree. But these two things coming together set off a chain reaction that no one saw coming, including me.
Both those who have given up and those who are unsure on when to give up make up the male population in their 50s.
It was time to pare down my unruly clothing and make some age-appropriate cuts so I wouldn’t have to hire a bigger removal truck. After more than 30 years in the industry, a fashion editor carries a lot of literal baggage. Attempts to maintain the status quo are constantly met with criticism. Also, if you’re a hoarder like me (and I’d venture to say that the majority of men are), there will be consequences. It became apparent to me after sorting my loot into “action” piles (one for charity, one to re-home, one to sell on eBay) that 50 was not the new 40 after four days. Tragically, it marked the end of half of my possessions, which, to be completely honest, I was still wearing.
Getting on the wrong side of fifty turns out to be a turning point: you have to decide what you should not wear instead of what you should. Like many men nearing their 50s, I find myself uncomfortably positioned in the second group—those who have given up and those who are unsure of when to do the same. Now I understand.
My combat pants, which appear to procreate when confined to a dark closet, were the first to go to the floor. I spent the aughts and aughts living in combats, gradually phasing them out with just occasional cameos in more recent years. Trousers that are extremely baggy, too decorated, or have an excessive number of pockets or zippers are absolutely unacceptable. Everything with a camouflage pattern should also go out with a bang, since we are talking about classic pieces of clothing with a military history.
In terms of pants, my recommendation is to stick to basics with a touch of formality—that is, less stuffy than a suit pant but yet more put-together than pajamas. Here I’m picturing a pair of traditional denim jeans reimagined in a high-end fabric or a pair of chino pants with an old-school feel that isn’t overly trendy or stuffy. Swedish high street essentials haven Arket, whose trouser offering runs from £55 to £90 (I love their laidback hopsack slacks), and Margaret Howell, whose washed cotton twill chino will cost approximately £165.
Noble in his beige and brown: Oliver Spencer.
Converse Jack Purcell sneakers were another thing I appeared to have in enough; I had at least one pair in about every color imaginable. For some reason, after years of thinking these were a better fit for an older man than a trainer, they are now seen as a red flag for someone who is clinging to their youth. No need to say goodbye to sneakers just because you hit the big 50! Instead, upgrade to a high-quality pair of unbranded shoes from a brand like Grenson, Common Projects, or Harrys of London (the Nimble is a classic option at £295). If you’re looking for a shoe that complements tailoring, an Adidas Stan Smith can be a good compromise that helps soften the edges of a corporate outfit.
Keep in mind that less is more when it comes to your clothing, both in terms of style and quantity. Thank goodness the trend-following era is over; now is the moment to invest in a few high-quality, long-lasting products rather than a hoard of low-quality, short-lived ones.
Holding on to items for decades in the hope that they will be trendy again is another common error guys make. That makes sense in principle; the 90s are making a comeback right now. But take note: the target audience for these resurgences is younger. Keep your distance from the trendy children’s clothing items like anoraks, fleece track tops, and bucket caps. You will come across as that dude who got caught in the Britpop period, not as a man who is up-to-date. The “to ditch” list also includes baseball caps (I’ll say it like this: Forrest Gump), skinny jeans, parkas, and Hawaiian shirts. Rollneck knits, Harrington jackets (of which Oliver Spencer is a master), pea coats, and delicately tailored tweed coats are more your speed. Channel your inner Richard Burton and be friends with them. One company that excels at making the latter is Private White VC. Wearing age-inappropriate sportswear or, worse, appearing like you’ve given up on fashion completely, is not the way to achieve comfort, even though it is important.
The adage “less is more” applies to every aspect of your wardrobe.
Warning: This is not the time to pull out your credit card if you see anything on an online store’s website that starts with the word “Dad”—like Balenciaga’s “Dad jeans” or “Dad trainers”—because this is clearly not appropriate for your age. Avoid wearing something that your dad would have worn; the word is used humorously. If you want to come across as confident, self-reliant, and content with your position in life, it’s because you’re a man of the world who has lived through tough times and made wise decisions based on that wisdom.
Although I knew I would eventually reach 50, I have the power to live it up anyway I want thanks to my recent wardrobe purge. Plus, I chose to move to the seaside.
What guys ought to dress
Get a custom fit. Subtle blazers made of softer, more casual fabrics should replace overtly business suits. A fantastic cardigan-style jacket from Lacoste (lacoste.com) and the Mr. Porter own-brand line, Mr. P (mrporter.com), both of which have an excellent selection for guys of a specific age, are excellent options. This unstructured jersey blazer in navy from Mr. Porter retails for £425 (mrporter.com).
Start with your feet
With age comes the need for more comfortable footwear. Still, it’s not always easy to strike the right mix between casual and dressy. As a general rule, you may expect a rubberized sole and a superior leather upper. Companies like Grenson, which has an excellent chestnut variant, and the high street minimalist brand Cos (cosstores.com) have achieved perfection in this regard. Grenson.com offers a pair of hand-painted calf leather sneakers for £170.
Relax about it
Prioritize learning how to knit a rollneck using fine-gauge yarns. If you’re not careful, they can be a wonderful way to add some color to your clothing. The selection is excellent at both John Smedley (johnsmedley.com) and the time-tested Marks & Spencer (marksandspencer.com).
Challenge with chino
Try on some garment-dyed chinos for a more worn-in look. If you’re willing to spend a little more, you can find amazing fits at Joseph (joseph-fashion.com) and Jigsaw (jigsaw-online.com). However, unlike the kids, you shouldn’t snip them too short at the ankle. Stretch chinos with a slim fit, £85 at jigsaw-online.com.
Complete solution
Visit Oliver Spencer for all things suitable for children. Stores run by him are a one-stop-shop for us older men, and his classic clothing takes cues from current trends while maintaining control. Of all the pieces, the Waltham jacket is my favorite.
